Maneuvering your Powerboat Trailer
First, you have to know the width and shape of your hull, as well as the length of your powerboat in relation to your trailer. To determine the length of your powerboat, measure in a straight line from the transom to the boat eye. Next, says Mark Jacobs, owner of the Marine Cradle Shop in Markham, Ont., owners should “consider the maximum weight capacity of the powerboat, fully loaded with gas and gear.” But don’t just go by the brochure weights.
Often, your boat manual will only tell you the “dry weight” of the boat, not including fuel, gear, batteries, other accessories and your engine if it’s an outboard. Most marinas will be able to give you a rough estimate of the combined weight of your boat and engine by comparisons with similar models but Jacobs recommends that you overestimate your total, simply to ensure safe trailering.
After you’ve taken into consideration the total powerboat weight and its length on the trailer, you can now start maneuvering your powerboat trailer correctly. To begin, pull the powerboat or motorboat up to a dock or beach near the boat ramp; be aware of your additional length as soon as you begin driving. Begin sharp turns by driving forward a little later to allow the trailer to turn within the available space. In other words, take wide turns.
From there, begin backing the trailer with the vehicle and trailer in line. A trailer that’s even slightly angled won’t back up straight. Turn the vehicle’s steering wheel in the direction opposite where you want the trailer to go. The trailer and vehicle will turn in opposite directions.
Straighten the steering wheel as soon as the trailer begins to turn in the desired direction. Backing a trailer is awkward; keep in mind that it’s usually easier to start over than it is to correct a mistake.
Launching your Powerboat from its Trailer
Back the powerboat down the launch ramp, stopping before the stern of the boat hangs over the water. From there, your type of boat trailer will be crucial in how you go about unloading. For easy loading and unloading, roller trailers can’t be beat, making them a popular choice for lake hoppers and day trippers.
As the name implies, this style employs a set of rollers for boat support, allowing you to easily roll the boat on and off the trailer; a critical factor if you’re using steep, shallow or uneven boat launches. The rollers also help center the boat as you winch it out of the lake. But keep a close eye on their condition over periods of frequent use, since the wheels can begin to flatten, giving the boat hull uneven support.
Bunk trailers (which use material-covered planks or bunks instead of rollers to support the hull) are generally acknowledged to be the superior choice for infrequent users and boaters looking for long-term storage.
Bunk trailers give better support and that makes them better for storage because the weight of the boat is more evenly distributed. While primarily suited for use on level, well-maintained boat launches, bunk trailers will load more easily on steeper launches if the bunks are thoroughly soaked down.
Whichever your boat trailer type, when unloading your boat, always check to be sure… be absolutely positive… that your boat’s drain plug is securely in place. Once you’ve checked and double-checked, remove the tie-down straps and lines then unlock the ratchet on the retrieval winch. Remove the bow retrieval line if applicable.
Also remove pins or other devices used to prevent outboard motors from tipping down (that is, leave any moveable devices in place). Back the boat down until the trailer wheels are submerged or until the ramp ends, whichever comes first. From there, secure a bowline in your hand or to a dock.
In addition, remove the locking pin on tilt trailers. Push the boat off the trailer. If it binds when you push from the bow, move aft and push from a point closer to the beam. Hold the boat beside the dock or in the shallow water.
Tip the motor back and follow motor-starting procedures. Motor slowly to the dock and then tilt the trailer back down if necessary. Once everything is said and done, drive the car back to a parking space and go boating.
Reloading the Powerboat back into the Trailer
First, pull the boat up to a dock or beach near the boat ramp. Next, disconnect the fuel line. Then tilt the outboard motor up and lock it, if so equipped. Back the trailer down the ramp until water touches the rear wheels. Don’t get the vehicle’s wheels into the water.
Move the boat up to the trailer and center it. Release the tilt lock, if so equipped. At this point, release the ratchet lock and pull the retrieval line out from the winch. Smaller boats may load by hand. Attach the retrieval line to the bow of the boat and reset the winch lock.
Slowly crank the boat onto the trailer. Watch how it rides up onto the trailer. You may need to push it back to line it up again. Then, lock the tilt lock if it didn’t lock automatically. Drive up the ramp to a spot where you’ll be out of the way.
Finally, remove any remaining gear and the fuel tank if it isn’t secured. Don’t forget to collapse and secure any awnings or similar covers. Besides which, tie down straps and other fasteners, then pull the drain plug and release accumulated water.
Additional points to consider in loading a powerboat to your trailer: If you lift your trailer to a horizontal position and weigh it at the coupler, you should be lifting anywhere from 5-10 per cent of your total boat and trailer weight. Called the “tongue weight,” this load affects the stability of both trailer and vehicle. Ideally, when the trailer is attached to the hitch, it should ride on a horizontal plane and not pull up or push down on the rear end of the vehicle.
Without enough tongue weight, a trailer will be pulling up on the hitch as well as the rear end of the towing vehicle, making driving unsafe as well as prompting trailer fishtailing. But too much tongue weight can sink the back end of the tow vehicle, increasing pressure on its springs and shocks, raising headlights into oncoming traffic and potentially compromising its steering.
A lot of lightweight vehicles present problems for towing. If a guy comes in with a Honda Accord and a 3,000-pound trailer setup, you’re not going to put 300 pounds of tongue weight on the trailer or his front wheels will be reaching for the sky. By shifting the trailer’s wheel axle forward or back, a service that many marinas offer, the trailer’s tongue weight can be customized to the capacity of the towing vehicle.