How to Surf a Longboard
A longboard is a kind of surfboard and they can range from around 8-14 feet. Longboards are also the surfboards of choice when you’re a beginner. Here’s how to get started.
You don’t have to buy a longboard from the get-go. Most surfing beaches offer longboard rentals by an hour to a whole day. Simply ask for them to find a longboard that will match your body size, height and skill level. If you’re staying longer, you can even rent a longboard for a week.
Put your board down on the ground in the standard orientation. Stand on it and assume the normal stance, which is left foot forward, right foot back. It’s usually the norm to adapt this stance, but if you are not feeling it, you can do the opposite stance, also known as the “goofy” stance.
Make sure that the leash is securely attached to the ankle of your back foot.
Go to the calmer waters near the shoreline. Place the longboard on the water and lie stomach-down on it. Use your arms to paddle around the area, taking note how you balance and how you can move around the water with minimum effort.
Once you’re more confident of your balancing abilities, it’s time to go to to where the smaller waves are rolling in. If the water is shallow enough, you can simply stand right next to your longboard and turn it around so that you and the longboard are facing shore and perpendicular to the waves. Otherwise, you’ll just have to paddle, keep afloat and wait for the wave.
When you see a wave coming, paddle as hard as you can! Check your balance, you should have your weight centered right in the middle. Keep paddling until the waves finally hit you, and keep paddling until the waves carry you to the shore. Stay flat, maintain your balance and yes, you’re almost there. Keep doing this step until you are more comfortable with riding the wave.
Once you’ve gotten down the part of riding the wave while on your stomach, it’s time to stand up. Assume the position and wait for the wave. Once you feel the wave carrying your board, push your torso up and and get on your feet. This movement should be done quickly and smoothly. Don’t wait too long to do it, as waiting too long will ruin your stability and cause you to topple over.
Keep practicing. When you’re confident enough to ride bigger waves, just start again from surfing while lying down, and then progressing onwards to proper surfing.