How to Build a Wooden Fence
Do you need a wooden privacy fence to keep large dogs in or protect your family fun from the eyes of nosy neighbors? Whether you’re clueless about where to start, or just need some good pointers, you’ve come to the right place. These directions will help you secure your lawn’s perimeter and prevent the neighborhood spies from examining your every action.
Building considerations:
If you choose not to buy pretreated lumber as recommended, plan to stain either before or immediately after building the fence, because wind and weather will do much more than turn the boards gray. They will also warp the wood and cause the fence to become less secure.
Measure the perimeter of your yard and decide how many fence panels you will need. If you are using six-foot panels, divide the total yardage of the perimeter by six. Consider adding a couple of extra panels just in case.
wooden fence
Decide whether you want to enclose the back yard on four sides with fence, or whether to use your house as one side.
.Call before you dig. Call the electrical, sewage, gas, water, and telephone companies to make sure there are no cables or pipes on your property that will be damaged by digging. If there are cables or lines, have them marked carefully to avoid creating a disaster for you or for your neighbors.
If the ground is not level, consider whether you want to level the ground before beginning. Otherwise the fence will slant down the hill of the yard as it goes away from the house.
Materials:
6′x8′ privacy fence sections (15 needed for a 200′ perimeter fence)
4″x4″x8′ posts (purchase 22 for a 200′ perimeter fence)
24 bags concrete, 60 pounds each
Deck screws, 2″
Gate (preferably pre-hinged)
Four 2″ deck screws
Latch for gate
Tools:
Post hole digger, electric or manual
Wheelbarrow
Electric screwdriver or pneumatic drill
Tape measure
Marking pencil
Level
Electric Saw
Hammer
Building the fence:
Begin at one side of the yard. In this case, we used the back of the house as one side of the fence for economy, so we started at the back corner of the house and placed the first 4″x4″ post there.
Use the post hole digger to dig a hole two feet deep.
Place a 4″x4″ post into the hole and seat it so that it is level.
Mix a bag of concrete in the wheelbarrow. Pour the concrete into the hole.
Ensure that the post is level before the concrete begins to set. Use scrap lumber to brace the post on either side so that the post does not begin to lean before the concrete sets.
Measure the first fence panel carefully to ensure that it is exactly 8′ long. Sometimes the panels are a little longer or shorter, and this can cause problems with attaching them to the posts if you don’t trim any excess or take a shortage into account before digging the next post hole.
Dig the next post hole and seat the 4″x4″ post 2 feet into the ground so that the center of the second post is exactly 8′ from the center of the first post. Mix concrete and pour it into the hole. Brace the post so that the concrete can set without the post beginning to lean.
Continue steps 2-7 until you have placed post down the entire length of one side of the yard.
Continue the same process for the remaining two sides of the yard, determining where you are going to place the gate.
In this case, we placed the gate at the back of the house opposite from the side where we started, and made the length opposite the house 4′ longer than the house so that the gate could be placed directly at the back of the house.
A 4″x4″ post should be seated on either side of the location where the gate will go.
After the posts have set and are level and even, begin attaching the lumber panels to the posts.
Start at the beginning post, and use the electric or pneumatic drill to attach the panel firmly with deck screws. Use at least one to two screws every 12″ down the length of the panel/post juncture.
Attach the other side of the panel to the second post.
Continue this process down to the end of the first side. Cutting the final panel may be necessary. Be sure to measure the distance between the middle of the post and the middle of the final post before making the cut.
Repeat steps 13 to 15 for the remaining two sides of the fence.
Hanging the gate:
Hold the gate up to determine where the hinges should be placed against the post. Determine whether you want the gate to swing inward or outward. Drill the holes for the hinges into the post.
Hang the gate by inserting 2″ screws into the holes.
Attach the latch to the fence.
Finishing touches:
Paint or decorate the fence if you desire.
Fill in any small gaps with topsoil. Cover the cement with topsoil after it has dried and seed with grass seed.
Check carefully for weak spots in the fence or nails that protrude.
Return extra supplies.
Consider keeping an extra panel or two handy just in case a portion of the fence needs repair.
If you’re pretty sure that fence is solid, it’s time to test it. Shut the gate and let your dog loose. If there is any weak spot or hole, be sure that he or she will find it. Now, plan your barbecue and don’t worry about the neighbors. They won’t be able to see you - unless they are leaning over the top of the fence and staring. Enjoy your privacy!