How To Install Drywall
Even after the walls and ceilings inside your home are fully-erect, there’s still one key element you have to install: the drywall. This building material is manufactured globally, and is added for the finish construction of a place’s interior ceilings and walls. Drywall consists of an inner core made from gypsum plaster, and then wrapped with paper lining.
Many homeowners leave the task to a professional drywall taper, but if you’re a do-it-yourself person, you can do the procedure yourself. Here’s how.
Materials Needed
Wallboard
Circle cutter or keyhole saw
T-square
Screws
Drop cloth
Adhesive
Drywall hammer or crow-head hammer
Sandpaper block
Joint compound
Metal corner strips
Steel rule
Trimming knife
Trowel
Sandpaper (80-100 grit)
Adhesive gun
8” to 10” drywall knife
4” joint knife
1×4’s and 2×4’s for the T-brace
Nails
Planning And Choosing The Drywall
Begin by sketching the ceiling areas and walls where the drywall will be installed. This will help you see errors as they appear on paper, and not while you’re doing the job.
Make sure that the wallboards are installed perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Drywall should also be first installed on the ceilings, before being put to the walls.
If your building code requires a fire-rated material, opt for a special fire-rated or Type X drywall.
For a place that needs vapor barrier, a special, foil-backed, insulating wallboard should be use. A vapor barrier with plastic material sheets should also be used.
If you have an excessive moisture dilemma, a water-resistant drywall is a better option. This is usually covered with green finish paper.
Cutting The Drywall
Cut the wallboard using your trimming or scoring knife, along with a 4′ straightedge. For a straighter and more even cut, use a T-square.
Make marks and measure accurately before cutting the wallboard. Score along the marks with a, straightedge for accuracy.
At a right angle, hold the knife to the board, and score through the face paper completely. The board will easily break at the part where it’s scored.
After snapping it, trim the paper at its uncut side, using a sharp knife or shears. Create irregular and circular cuts using your keyhole saw.
When cutting holes in the wallboard for your light receptacles, switches and electrical outlets, mark and measure the opening’s location on the wallboard’s face. Outline the opening using a pencil, then cut out with your keyhole saw or circle cutter.
Make sure the hole is located accurately and cut to the proper size, or else, the electrical coverplate won’t adequately cover the hole.
Single Or Double Layer-Installation?
This is an important aspect you should decide on when installing drywall. Having a single layered wall with a 1/2” or 5/8” drywall is the most economical wall construction type, not to mention the fastest and fastest. On the other hand, a double layer installation is more appropriate if you want sound deadening and extra fire protection. A double-layer consists of a 3/8” wallboard finish, placed over a 3/8” backing board. It also lessens the possibility of cracking, and nails popping out when the wallboard strains or warps.
Installing Drywall To The Ceiling
You should apply the wall to the ceiling at right angles towards the joists. If you plan on installing double layers, put the bottom layer at right angles, then the finish layer in a manner that leaves minimum seams.
Holding the ceiling board isn’t easy, so ask someone to help you with this task. If you’re all alone, solve the problem by making a “T” brace, using a 1×4 piece, at least 2′, nailed to the end of a 2 x 4. The 2 x 4 must be long enough to reach from the floor to the ceiling.
It’s recommended to double-nail ceilings. If you opt for the nail-on and adhesive method, however, put three nails at each joist, across every wallboard. Drive on nail in the board’s center, then the other two at each edge. Make sure you drive them in enough, to tighten the board against the framing.
Installing Drywall To A Wall
Install all your top boards first, pushing firmly against the ceiling and nailing lightly into place.
On the parts where the ceiling boards are nailed to the ceiling joists, begin the first run of nails, at least 7” below the ceiling.
If you opt for the adhesive and nail-on method, just put the nails at the board’s edge, and apply adhesive on the back, holding the studs and boards in the center. When the adhesive sets, remove the holding nail.
If you’re installing the wallboard vertically, place its long edges just parallel to the framing members. A vertical application is advisable if your wall height is bigger than 8′2”.
The Corner And Joints
For outside corners, use metal corner strips, inserting a nail in the strips at about every 5”. Nail the edge of the strip first before nailing into the wood framing and through the drywall.
For finishing the joints, corners and nail heads, you should get a good graded joint compound. Taped joints need two or three coats. Each coat of joint compound must be left to dry before the next coat is applied.
Get a 4” finishing knife and smooth out every coat of joint compound. Fill in the recessed area made by the tapered wallboard edges joined together, then smooth it off with a 4” joint finishing knife.
Finishing Up
As soon as the final coating is dry, sand the board to create a smooth finish. Remove excess dust, using a clean rag, and prepare the surface for a final coat of paper or paint.
The nails you used should be dimpled below the board’s surface. Conceal these areas by applying a coat of joint compound, using even pressure so the compound becomes level with the surface. Don’t press too hard though, or the knife might scoop out the compound.
When it’s dry, apply a second coat. Allow to dry again, then sand lightly. Apply a third coat. If you live in a humid area, add a fourth coat.
Check the butt or end joints on the wallboards, and make sure there’s no compound build up.
Feather the joint compounds on the side of the butt joints. They must go from 7” to 9”. The last application should have a joint at least 14” to 18” wide.
Nail the metal corner strips into position, using a 4” finish knife. Spread the compound mix 3” to 4” from the bead’s nose. As soon as the first layer is dry, sand lightly, and add another coat of compound mix. Feather the edges at least 2” to 3” beyond the first coat.
Lastly, finish inside corners with regular tape. Use a 4” knife to apply joint compound, and spread evenly at least 1 1/2” on each angle’s side.
Drywall makes your home’s walls and ceilings sturdier and more efficient, as long as it’s properly installed. If you’re a do-it-yourself guy, remember these steps, but if you’re not, better leave it to the expert tapers. An improperly installed drywall can spell disaster.