How to Install a Door Molding
Installing a door molding is an easy do-it-yourself project that will brighten up any space. If a child’s tricycle has damaged the corners or the molding is hopelessly out of step with the room, you can easily make the change in a morning.
Required Materials
Molding
8p finish nails
Required Tools
Awl
Hammer
Pry bar
Coping saw
45 degree speed square
Tape measurer
Pencil/paper
Circular saw
Ladder or step stool
Step One: Removing Existing Molding
To begin the project, remove the existing molding. Insert the pry bar between the molding and the frame of the door. Do not work to remove the molding from the wall side as damage may occur. Although it is called a pry bar, use a pulling motion as much as possible with a bit of prying only as necessary. Prying will leave marks or dents.
Step Two: Measurement
Begin by measuring from the sill top to the inner and upper corner of the frame (always measure on the doorway frame.) Add the width of the header molding you plan to use. This will be your finished height.
Step Three: Mitering
There are several ways to miter a diagonal joint for a molding connection. You can use a coping saw, a circular saw or a miter box. A miter box is perhaps the easiest way to ensure a perfect cut. If you do not have a miter box, it can be rented, although you may have to look around. A coping saw is another option and works well. If you choose to go this route, you should have a steady hand.
A circular saw is also an option for this task. Unfortunately, the cut is not quite as finished as most would like. If you have a block plane and sand paper about you could go this route but don’t expect too much from a tight joint. Miter your joints at a 45 degree angle.
As an aside, many older homes have a block detail to make a molding corner. Instead of mitering, this option may work for you. Many architectural detail shops have historically correct block molding that just require nailing and sinking with an awl.
Step Four: Installing the Molding
Install your header piece first, making sure to check for level and inside corner length several times before nailing with 8p fish nails. Butt the vertical moldings against the header molding and check for plumb. Make sure that there is a good connection with the header. Nail into place and sink with the awl.
Step Five: Painting and Filling
After the molding is in place and the nails have been sunk, you may wish to cover the nail holes with a filler material. Make sure that the filler material is compatible with the paint you choose, as it may fall out and leave a stain if it is not. Also, consider that some molding will not accept the filler and will need to be painted. This is one of the first considerations you should address before beginning the project.