How to Install Crown Molding
Crown molding makes the wall meet the ceiling. It is applied with artistic style to give notable touch of class in designing a room. Crown molding installation demands precision and skill in measuring, trimming and installing. It is not an easy job for an amateur and mistakes are very obvious and expensive. To start doing this project, here are easy steps, guides and tips for your guidance.
Step One: Prepare for molding.
Measure the linear footage extent together with the necessary distance to be trimmed out. To have room for waste and mistakes, add 10 percent to your calculated figure.
Choose the appropriate design for your crown molding. It comes in different shapes and sizes. Style should match your personal taste and need. Many moldings came from composite materials. This allows you to work more stable with the product.
Trim the length of the molding. Make few splices as much as possible. Lengthy walls have to be spliced into shorter pieces since longer pieces are susceptible to warping and damage. The longest trim should only be at 14 to 16 feet. Afterwards, paint or stain the trim and dry it thoroughly.
Work on a long bench that has comfortable height for you. Lay down some 2X4s on top of the sawhorses to hold and support your miter saw while working on it. This will help you accurately cut the angles.
Set up your workstation with plenty of light and with easy access to electricity. Prepare a solid platform to make your work easier and safer. You need two stable sawhorses with a plank. You could also use scaffolding with miniature wheels that will act as your stable platform while installing your molding.
Carefully inspect all your materials. They should be straight and have no knotholes, warps or twists, and rough spots or dings.
Step Two: Actual trimming and joining
Apply the first piece of molding securely into your corner. Cope-cut (not so square cuts) the second piece to be part of the other corner angle leg. It should be in the shape of the profile molding so neatly placed against the face of the first piece.
Operate a deep miter box and a fine-toothed saw to prepare a cut revealing the profile of the molding. Place the molding upside down in the miter box - molding face should go against the ceiling while on the bottom of the deep miter box. For inside corners, the longest edge is the bottom of the molding. For protection, wear safety glasses.
Remove excess wood along the backside of molding while following profile line through a coping saw. Removing too much of the outermost edge of the coped molding will be seen when placed on the wall.
Cut excess material you neglected with the coping saw through a utility knife. Try not to cut the exposed face of the molding. Hold firmly the piece in place for fitting and make more carving when necessary. Expect many fittings and trimmings to make a clean fitting joint.
Work out with a pattern to save work and material. One end of every molding piece should be cut straight while the other end should be mitered or coped. Utilize scarf joints for long runs and cut molding ends at 45 degrees so they will overlap with other pieces. Lay down your pattern to make joins on top of studs.
Step Three: Attaching and finish
Identify joint locations and test sample holes to preserve molding from splitting.
Attach molding with nails. Depending on the thickness of the molding, use 6d or 8d finish nails. Prepare also a solid nailing area so joints run parallel to the crown molding. Use a beveled cut into 2X2 and screw it to the wall in the corner of the ceiling and wall. 2X2 provides surface and proper angle for nailing the molding.
To cover visible nail holes and small joint gaps, use wood putty. Use your finger on rough-surfaced molding when applying putty.