Procedure: 1) Remove the valve cover according to your shop manual's instructions. Don't try to hammer a screwdriver or chisel between the valve cover and the head. You will ruin the gasket surface in a very short order. 2) Before the valves can be set you'll need to find the top dead center (TDC). Manufacturers generally imprint either the flywheel, the alternator rotor, or the ignition rotor with a datum mark indicating top dead center. Depending on the engine design, there may be one mark or a separate mark for each cylinder. Your manual will fill you in on the exact procedure. 3) Remove the spark plugs, pop it into gear, and turn the rear wheel by hand to position the engine. 4) Valve clearances are checked and adjusted when the crankshaft/piston of the cylinder you are adjusting are at top dead center on the compression stroke. Start by rotating the engine in its normal direction of travel. Watch the intake valve as you rotate the engine. The valve will open on the intake stroke and close on the compression stroke. When the valve begins to close, start to look for the TDC indicator. When it lines up with its reference mark, check both rocker arms for free play. 5) To measure the valve clearance select the appropriate feeler gauge, and place the blade of the gauge through the gap between the adjuster and the valve stem.If the manual calls for 0.004 (four-thousandths of an inch) clearance, slide your 0.004 gauge through the gap. If it feels a little loose try a 0.005 blade. If it won't go, you know the adjustment is as good as it's going to get. If the 0.005 slides through the valve, it's still a little loose. Readjust it. 6) If the valve needs adjustment, loosen the lock nut and, using the appropriate tool, turn the adjuster to decrease or increase the lash. You'll find that leaving the adjuster nut a little snug will keep some tension on the adjusting screw, making it easier to accurately set the clearance. When the clearance feels good, hold the adjusting screw, and tighten up the lock nut.